Anatomy of the Winter Coat
Anatomy of the Winter coat
Written by Tehya tenasco
Photographed by Emma Fisher
When I saw girls online fawning over the Brandy Melville peacoat, I could feel a brand new, niche corner of fashion TikTok emerging. It’s strange to watch something you’ve always been a fan of suddenly become a seasonal, online trend. Peacoats have been a prominent factor in my personal style since childhood, which is why the recent boom in popularity this winter has me wondering...what is outerwear? At what moment does a coat become more than something warm to throw on before braving Alaskachusetts?
First, a quick history lesson! The story of the peacoat begins with Dutch sailors in the 1880s. In dire need of overrelenting windchill protection,
these sailors designed a long, thickly woven, usually navy colored wool coat with distinguished lapels and cartoony buttons. Though the Dutchinvented the coat, the British are cited to have popularized the stylish, navy attire. The name “peacoat” comes from the Dutch word “pije,” meaning a coat made from itchy or prickly wool (I found the name quite silly-sounding when I was a little kid). The peacoat eventually made its way to the U.S. Navy for a similar reason, establishing the garment as a practical piece of outerwear, fit for hard working sailors and seafarers.
Due to its blocky silhouette and traditional weaving technique, designers across the world have put their own unique touch on the classic coat. Maison Margiela, Dior, Burberry, Miu Miu, and so many more have influenced the iconic double breasted look for modern day wear. It was only a matter of time before the style was thrust back into the fashion zeitgeist to be revived by retailers and consumers. The cropped cut of the Brandy Melville peacoat, accompanied by the pronounced lapels, is quite cute. Choosing to produce the coat in navy makes me imagine that some historical research was put into the final design.
I’ve owned many winter coats, and warmth is almost never on the list of top priorities when I’m shopping. In my mind, my outfits exist in a limbo between late autumn and early spring–warmth is optional, depending on what I’m looking for. I bought a peacoat in mid summer on Depop, eager to get a jump on seasonal prices. $40 or so later, the Rue 21 peacoat arrived. Not only did the brand intrigue me, but the high collar and sleeves adorned in black ruffles was the exact statement detail I was in search of.
In an ever-evolving culture where prices get higher and quality of life dips lower, we deserve to feel good in the clothing we wear. The revival of the peacoat is a telltale sign that young adults today desire to express their whimsy and wonder in professional settings. While the peacoat of yesterday was designed with the best interest of the body in mind, the peacoat of today is a statement against the expected; a physical adornment representing the unique optimism and lust for life young people hold.
Despite the style’s naval history, I’ve always associated peacoats with spring green. An odd, unexpectedly Pixie Hollow-esque color that I couldn’t help but adore as an elementary schooler. Oversized black buttons, smooth lapels, a silky inner lining that I found doll- like. I’ve always been extremely susceptible to doll-evoking clothing. My spring green peacoat was reserved for holiday visits and Easter Sunday brunches, meaning that a chance to wear it had me jumping for joy. Like anything and everything, I grew out of my beloved peacoat and passed it down to my younger sisters, who passed it down to my younger cousin. Its magnetic, out of the ordinary traits were not lost on me. The coat’s uniqueness was unequivocally vulnerable, translating to the outside world my playful, childhood innocence and wit. Outerwear is anatomically vulnerable, manifesting to the outer world the hopes and gravitational pulls of the inner psyche. There’s no hiding when it comes to wearing a coat. Outerwear is a reflection of the encased body, an inside out X-Ray capable of exclaiming softly to the world, and to ourselves, what truly matters in the moment.