Don't Tell the Weasel... Popovers on the Square
Don’t Tell the Weasel… popovers on the square
by molly dehaven and anna chalupa
To pop or not to pop? That’s the arduous question we faced this week at a local restaurant in New Hampshire. Now, you may be anxiously asking, what led us so far out of our beloved college city? Put simply: we love an adventure– the good, the bad, and the yummy. A surprise road trip up the coast? Yes, please. An unanticipated snowstorm? No problem! A mystery local pastry? We’ll take all of them. So, when a road trip stop left us in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, our hunger (and Molly’s well-lived Yelp account) revealed our innate duty: a review of a local pastry, the popover. Let us tell you about this quick bite that became a memorable pop of color in our snow-laden journey: Popovers on the Square.
Ambiance/First Impressions:
Hidden in a beige, unassuming building in Downtown Portsmouth is Popovers on the Square, a comfy and dependable bistro serving up sandwiches, small plates, and baked goods. Upon walking into this North Eastern gem, you immediately understand why it has become a local favorite. This was by far the brunch spot with the highest reviews in Portsmouth, and it was clear that there was an affinity between locals and tourists alike. There were groups of people sitting in the dining room over plates of comfort food, and we could tell immediately that we had chosen a good spot. It literally–and figuratively–was like stepping into a cozy kitchen on a bitter New Hampshire morning. The setup is refreshingly low-maintenance and clearly speaks to the classic-ness of the business: a walk-up counter for ordering (perfect for those of us who panic when faced with too many brunch choices and change their mind thirty times before making a final decision) and a spacious dining area where you can settle in and pretend you're the mysterious main character in a small-town tv show. The decor isn’t anything flashy, but it's simple and adds to the ambiance. Despite the constant foot traffic, everything was clean, and the staff managed to be both attentive and unbothered by the weekend brunch chaos.
Taste/Menus
ANNA:
I’m a changed woman. Graciously assigning Molly the duty of finding our brunch abode, I had figured that “Popovers” was just a cute, catchy name. Boy, was I wrong. Entering the store, you are welcomed by baskets full of dough balls lining the windows, some even adorned with pride flags. This was my first realization that “Popovers” is not just a name; they are a thing.
Ask anyone, and they will tell you I have a bad case of choice paralysis. Initially, I was stuck between the Toasted Turkey Sandwich (with cranberry mayonnaise??) and the Red Pepper Hummus Toast. However, as far as I could tell, neither of these options included their namesake popovers, which I was now on a hardcore mission to try. Luckily, like a Care Bear sliding down a sunray from the sky, Molly pointed out the menu’s “Mix & Match” option, including your choice of any two: soup, salad, or sandwich. Finally, a cure for my indecisive illness. A sandwich, a soup, AND a popover? What more could a girl ask for? I ended up choosing a tuna salad sandwich (on a popover) and a tomato bisque (which came with a mini popover). I might’ve gotten a little carried away.
Now let me go even further: popovers are not just a thing, but an experience. If the images on this blog tell you anything, let it be that I had a lot of fun with these mini breads. They are light, airy, flaky, and subtly sweet. Somewhere between a pastry and bread, they make the perfect vessel to dip into a creamy tomato bisque. This combination was probably my favorite part of the meal (see Care Bear sunray imagery again). The sweetness of the popover cut the savory tomato just right, and its light texture made it easy to down the whole thing (and probably a couple more). The tuna salad was alright, adorned with lemon juice, pickled onions, and large lettuce leaves. It was just dry. I will also say the airiness of the popover made for a flimsy sandwich, falling apart and spewing tuna everywhere. I’d say stick to popovers as a dipping vessel. That’s where they truly shine.
Overall, the brunch here was fine, inoffensive. But I was here for one reason and one reason only: popovers. I had never heard of them before, and I’m not sure I ever will again, but I am eternally grateful for this (p)opportunity that Portsmouth gave to us. It’s an experience I’d redo anytime.
Rating: 5.5/8
MOLLY:
I am shamelessly nosy when it comes to looking at what other people order at restaurants. I will aggressively crane my neck 180 degrees to check out a stranger’s plate. I want to know everything about what they got, if they are enjoying it, and most importantly, if I’ve made a terrible mistake with my own order. And I often convince myself that I have. I couldn’t do this at Popovers because of the ordering at the counter. I wasn’t running through my typical deep dive of photos on Yelp. It was just me, a menu, and a line of people standing between me and my fate. I had a plan in my head to get the combo of clam chowder and a tuna salad sandwich. Then I started overthinking about mixing seafood. But alas, the clam chowder. After all, how often do you find yourself brunching in a New England coastal town? Despite all of this deliberation, my eye caught sight of something else on the menu, and when I got to the counter, some deeply misguided part of my brain blurted out: “Mac and cheese.”
Now, I don’t want to make this seem like it was some huge mistake because the mac and cheese wasn’t bad at ALL. This wasn’t some sad, soupy, cafeteria mac. It was actually quite good for something so simple. The cheese sauce was clearly homemade and covered every noodle—a great take on a classic comfort meal. I did have to add some pepper to tune the flavor, and I went on the hunt for hot sauce (it was nowhere to be found), but that’s no big deal. I ended up adding some of Anna’s tomato soup for the extra burst of flavor I was looking for. The portion was generous, too. I definitely did not leave hungry. But as I sat there with my mac and cheese, watching Anna eat her tuna salad sandwich and tomato soup, the FOMO crept in. At least I got a popover though, right? The mac and cheese didn’t do anything wrong… it was just… lunch. A safe lunch at that. A perfectly good meal that just didn’t excite me at the moment. This wasn’t a Popovers problem; it was a me problem. A textbook case of my food jealousy, and one I will probably never get over.
Rating: 4.7/8
Final Thoughts:
There’s no question that Popovers has established itself as a Portsmouth staple. If you’re making the trip, pop on over and grab yourself the locally famous pastry. The charm here isn’t forced; it’s effortless. The food is solid, the atmosphere inviting, the staff friendly, everything about it makes you want to stay a little longer. Whether you just need to grab a quick coffee and sweet treat or are settling in for a full meal, Popovers will fit itself to your occasion. We sure enjoyed ourselves. Put simply: we came, we saw, we popped.