Don’t Call Me “Plus Size”
The fashion community has been heavily criticized over the last few years over its lack of diversity in their models and sizes. But, as the movement for more “plus-size’ models in the industry increases, many are missing the point. Through the push to destigmatize larger sizes, why are we still calling them “plus-sized”? Why are we still othering the people we claim to represent?
The buzz surrounding the issue of size inclusivity in the fashion industry and clothing retail could pollinate a forest. “Plus-size” models like Iskra Lawrence and Ashley Graham grace the covers of magazines ranging from Sports Illustrated to Vogue. Their social media influence continues to grow and Lawrence recently became Managing Editor for RunwayRiot--a fashion, style, and beauty site for curvier women that have been underrepresented within the fashion industry. She’s also an ambassador for the National Eating Disorder Association (NEDA) and teaches classes through The Body Project--a prevention program for eating disorders.
Though skinny-shaming is also a growing epidemic that we didn’t need, the tactics that models use to fit the sizes required for runway shows are unhealthy and often detrimental to their general well-being. Jameela Jamil has been praised over the last few months for calling out celebrities that promote juice cleanses and detox teas. But, Victoria Secret models don’t even eat during the days leading up to their runway debut, some even cutting out liquids entirely according to The Guardian. It’s all cute and funny to have Dylan Sprouse bring Barbara Palvin a cheeseburger to snack on after the show until someone gets hurt.
So, why are we still holding this as the industry standard? Why do we discount larger and curvier women by excluding them from “normal” narratives and sizes? Why do we call them plus-sized?
I’m a size 12-14, depending on the store and design of the jeans (which honestly is a joke within itself). That range isn’t typically called “plus-sized” within the mass-produced retail community but is when it comes to models on the runway and in magazines.
I have wider-set hips, large thighs and butt, a slightly small waist, and a larger bust. I don’t have a flat stomach. I don’t fit what most brands categorize as “ideal”--sizes they carry a surplus of in physical stores. Because of that, I often find myself browsing both the “regular” and “plus-size” sections of stores like Forever 21.
“What upsets me is the fact that if you’ve categorized me, you’ve categorized all women my size and above in the real world. The term has really negative connotation thanks to the fashion industry…” Lawrence told Shape Magazine.
Photography by Lily Walsh
The average American woman has a 38.1” waist, measures 5’3” tall, and weighs 168.5 lbs. They’re a size 16 or 18. I understand that I am smaller than that, but oftentimes even women my size are excluded from the narrative; stores running out of my size shortly after stocking--because most people are between a 12 and 14--contributing to further issues within the fashion industry.
H&M--after removing the “plus-size” section from all 11 New York City stores--recently announced their initiative to create uniformity between US and UK sizes, making a present-day US size 12, a size 10 after claims that a “real” 4 could barely fit a size 10 in their jeans. If the brand were to offer a size 16 in their old sizing system, it would only fit up to a “real” 10, meaning they weren’t actually stocking any “plus-size” clothes. It’s a positive shift, but just one small step forward compared to the many miles taken backward including numerous racist marketing campaigns. Remember those?
Aerie by American Eagle Outfitters is praised for its size inclusivity, but reports from Today show that they’ve dramatically changed the sizes of their jeans; a woman’s size 4 from the 2000s and a size 10 from today’s line measuring out in exactly the same way. And yet, they have “extended sizes” of up to at least 18 in stores, which is better, but not great for everyone.
“Calling someone ‘plus-size,’ it seems like it’s for attention and publicity. Get over it--she’s a wonderful model,” Lawrence commented in Shape Magazine. “And now, brands actually are taking away the ‘plus’ from their names because [of] the negative connotation. I think women prefer ‘curvy’ instead of ‘plus-size.’ I would say I’m a curvy model.”
It definitely doesn’t feel great to be labeled as “other,” siphoned off to special sections while trying to find clothes to make me feel good about myself. I’m proud of my curves. I love them. But, some days I just can’t do the mall unless I’m feeling my absolute best self, because I know along the way I’m going to be knocked down. I can only imagine how it feels for those who go through that times 10, for only fitting into “plus sizes,” with measurements that often require online purchases.
We need clothes that represent us accurately. These outdated labels and sizing systems need to burn.