What Is Coquette Core?

Another trend has taken over TikTok–and the girlies don’t know if they’re here for it. Say hello to red lipstick kisses, soft pastels, Mary Jane flats, frills, pearls, corsets, and lots and lots of pink, lace, and ribbons. Coquette core is a new hyper-feminine trend that’s all about women reclaiming femininity.

The Oxford English Dictionary defines coquette as a “flirty woman,” however, this trend is characterized by its dainty and heavenly styles that are often associated with romance. It takes inspiration from aesthetics like balletcore and Chicana aesthetics, while also embracing vintage styles from the ‘50s and ‘60s. While this aesthetic has been around for years, it has been redefined as coquette core. Subcultures of coquette culture, like Americana Coquette, which can be identified by flower crowns and red lipstick, has been ruled by Lana Del Rey since 2012 during her Born To Die era. There’s also the Gloomy Dollette that focuses on cooler tones (like grays and whites) and is associated with Lily Rose Depp, Marina and the Diamonds, Blair Waldorf, and Kirsten Dunst in Marie Antionette. Many coquette outfits include pieces like mini skirts, tights, stockings, and satin. This aesthetic contrasts with other current trends like the ‘90s minimalist look, which’s filled with darker colors and basics, along with the 2010s corporate-girlboss look, which strayed from typical “girlishness.” Some TikTok influencers state that this trend is about reclaiming all of the things that girls have been told were stupid and ditzy. It’s about rebelling against the internalized misogyny they’ve fallen victim to by not embracing their femininity for fear of being made fun of.

However, while the aesthetic has empowered some, it has a darker side to it. Coquette core has received criticism for its exclusivity of body types, overall lack of BIPOC representation, and romanticization of Vladimir Nabokov’s Lolita. With roots in nymphette and Lolita aesthetics, which were popular on early Tumblr, there’s a sly encouragement of characteristics that infantilize women by its valued traits of innocence and petiteness that make this trend controversial. Look up “coquette core” on Pinterest and you’ll mainly see one type of person–a skinny white girl. The hyper-feminine style is so widely associated with Eurocentric features in turn making the aesthetic lack diversity. Even though there’s more BIPOC representation in this aesthetic since the “soft girl” trend went viral on TikTok, it’s still dominated by skinny white girls. However, some TikTok creators are fighting for inclusivity by embracing their inner “coquette.”

Moreover, we know the aesthetic is about hyper-femininity, but it poses the question of why people all over TikTok are embracing the stereotypical meaning of what it means to be a girl. The recent rise in the coquette aesthetic has brought with it the imposed stereotype of “girlishness” and since the main groups participating in this trend are femmes or femme presenting, the aesthetic is innately exclusive in this way due to the lack of representation of other gender identities. Some also believe that this fashion excessively caters to the male gaze because of its encouragement of a natural makeup look and girlish styles. And, while I’m glad that this aesthetic allows space for some to reclaim their femininity, it’s important to regard that “girlishness” does not equate to thinness, whiteness, petiteness, or the infantilization of grown women.

Your MagazineMarch 9, 2023