To Dickie or Not To Dickie

To Dickie or Not To Dickie

Written by Noah Berkowitz

Photographed by Naia Driscoll

If you asked the ranch hands of 1922 what they thought of the brand “Dickies,” they’d describe it as a great place to grab a pair of denim bib overalls, ready to wear for the long haul until the thread turned from a deep navy to a patchy white and blue. These same ranch hands would probably have their mind blown if they found out that this same reliable brand became a wardrobe staple for people called “skaters” and those who wanted to look stylish and trendy before walking out of the house in the morning. 

The long and illustrious history of Dickies spans countless genres and subgenres of purposes and styles, but the one constant among the entire 101-year-long story of the Texas brand is its immense versatility. Ranging from workwear to oversized grunge looks, the solid pair of Dickies pants is now a wardrobe staple. The popularity of the brand began to grow during World War II when the U.S. government commissioned the company to manufacture millions of uniforms for soldiers. Following this, just over 20 years later, was the birth of one of the most iconic pant profiles in history... the 874. The thought of the modern style for Dickies instantly transports you to the classic 874 silhouette. The relaxed tapered leg can be worn to fall over your shoes for a looser, baggier fit, or sized down, potentially cuffed at the bottom to show off the ankle or those unused New Balances that just came fresh out of the box. The origins of these essentials, however, are that of work pants. 

After launching in 1967, initially worn as an option that would be durable enough to last the work weeks ahead, and described by Dickies as “an authentic choice for the working class,” it wasn’t until the late 80s and early 90s though, that the now mainstream closet option became nearly as big as it is today. Some of the biggest rappers of the time, including Tupac, Snoop Dogg, and N.W.A., began repping the style, creating a buzz around Dickies that the humble work wear brand had never been seen before. The pop culture appeal behind the brand skyrocketed and more and more people began wearing Dickies as a statement, rather than just blue-collar work apparel. As a result of this, subgenres of style and other communities within them began taking notice, including, arguably the most influential group to be involved with the contemporary view of Dickies, skate culture. Riding a skateboard inevitably entails being scraped, bruised, burned, and cut, so using pants that could be both fashionable and durable was an absolute win. Paired with a scuffed black Vans Old Skool, an Element Skateboards tee, and topped off with an army green bucket hat and a speaker playing Blink-182, the skater style was recognizable by everyone, and has stood the test of time, consistently being emulated by skaters and non-skaters to try and turn back the clock from 2023, to 1993. 
So what is the style of Dickies today? Unsurprisingly, they have remained popular amongst both the skate and working world today, but with a newfound sense of admiration in the realm of everyday fashion, the landscape of who wears it has evolved too. Walking down the street, it’s common to see a friend, neighbor, or classmate rocking a pair of pine green 874s with a baggy graphic T-shirt bearing the 70s logo of an NBA team. This same pair of pine green 874s could be found on the legs of someone with a french-tucked, tan cable-knit sweater, Steve Madden Chelsea boots, and an earth-toned beanie with curly brown hair sticking out of the sides. The modernity of Dickies is defined by its versatility. They look good with every outfit. Each style of pants, whether it be the 874 we’ve covered so heavily, the Double Knee Work Trousers, or the classic blue jean with that timeless Dickies flair, always looks cool. Isn’t that what we’re searching for when we go out feeling good about that new combination we tried that no one has seen on us before? They look good in the winter, spring, summer, and fall, providing a unique vibe that’s equitable to each season. At the end of the day, Dickies is bound to nothing except the cultures it has inspired and the trends that it creates.

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