Uncanny Couture

The never-ending void of unrealistic body standards just got exponentially deeper. The use of artificial intelligence has infiltrated almost every aspect of fashion marketing and, most recently, has posed a serious threat to the existing modeling industry. It is becoming increasingly popular for brands to utilize AI software to create “models” for their new collections, and while these advertisements truly are captivating, the implications for instituting these non-human models into the world of fashion are potentially dangerous. There is no denying that these ads are incredibly effective in grabbing your attention, but looking more closely at what about them exactly draws you in is a bit unsettling.

As AI becomes a more popular mode for artistic expression, a fear of the “uncanny” has recirculated. We as humans are simultaneously attracted to and repulsed by an image that appears “human-like” but isn’t, in fact, human. The “uncanny” can be used to evoke visceral reactions from audiences; being confronted by reiterations of faces and bodies that you will never be able to relate to can be extremely unsettling.

One of Instagram's new favorite creators, Lil Miquela, is your average 19-year-old living in Los Angeles; she likes elevating her style with funky hair colors, hinting at “special projects” she has underway, and hanging out with her equally fashion-forward friends. The only difference is that Miquela is a robot. Her following of over two million people is evidence of our collective fascination with the uncanny, and her partnerships with elite fashion brands over the years are evidence that the intrigue has infiltrated even the most established companies.

When I first stumbled across Lil Miquela’s page, I didn’t quite understand what I was looking at. She looked like a Subway Surfers character come to life: her brightly colored hair and completely vacant gaze gave the illusion of a cheerfully aloof model. One whose managers didn’t let see the sun very often… In 2019, Miquela was featured in a Prada commercial with Bella Hadid, a “real” model in the industry. Surprisingly, the major critiques of the commercial were centered around the manufactured sexual tension between Miquela and Bella, not the artificial intimacy present between the robot and her supermodel collaborator. Since then, the public’s attachment to virtual versions of humanity, as well as AI-related technology, has only increased. Remembering the days when headless and perfectly chiseled mannequins set the precedent for buyers’ body images, the inclusion of AI models in fashion advertising doesn’t seem like that big of a stretch.

ETRO, an Italian fashion house that’s been around since the late sixties, has recently debuted its most recent campaign, “ETRO Nowhere: Out of Time in Another Space,” to the public. The only (and quite major) difference between this collection and those from years past is the models and scenescapes they used for the advertisement of their new collection. ETRO is known for its almost otherworldly type of fashion, specifically for its almost otherworldly textile patterns; from its handbags to its t-shirts, you can count on recognizing the brand by its mesmerizing patterns. You could count on the aesthetic of their pieces to characterize the reception of the new fashions: rich with bold colors and loud, yet tasteful, prints. Now, it seems, with the release of ETRO SS24, the brand has fully leaned into the idea of representing “a higher level of expression, a place of imagination only,” which, apparently, is a place without genuine human models.

I can see why it makes sense for ETRO’s branding, with their luxurious and often unconventional styles, to adopt a campaign that features advertisements with solely AI-generated models and backgrounds. Yet, I can’t help but feel that they have somehow lost the original plot of their company’s ambitions! As crucial as it is to create and maintain an image for your brand, isn’t the point of creating a recognizable and intriguing collection to sell to people? Real people?

Seeing clothes modeled by alien-esque figures is not necessarily all that enticing to me, seeing as I, myself, am not an alien-human-hybrid with an intergalactic waist size. Visually? Yes, the campaign is stunning… But looking into the eyes of one of the AI models for too long sends chills down my spine. Looking towards models that are already present in the industry, questioning the stability of their place within fashion advertising is only fair. Despite the runway being a seemingly quintessential aspect of the fashion industry, both for designers and for models, I wouldn’t be surprised to see Lil Miquela’s role as a fashion ambassador taken even further. If our digital marketing spaces are soon to be dominated by AI-generated campaigns, why wouldn’t our runways face the same fate?

Comparing the ETRO SS24 runway show with its recent ad campaign, they are surprisingly similar, which begs the question: why use AI models if the runway is just as visually striking and captivating? While pushing for the fashions to be imagined in a fantastical and creative space is commendable, making sure that the buyer can picture themselves in these miraculous pieces is arguably an important piece of the equation. An AI model can adhere to any body type, yet the almost alien-like models in ETRO’s advertisements are not very reminiscent of a human figure. Imagining what that article of clothing, or bag, would look like on a real human body is a lot more difficult when the depicted model isn’t human themselves.

Predicting that AI models will continue to infiltrate the fashion advertising world is a given, and their involvement with the future of fashion is a safe assumption to act upon. Given our fascination with the uncanny, the rapid development of artificial intelligence technology, and our willingness to accept robots as personal representations, it seems that AI is here to stay in the world of fashion. All that’s left to do is sit back, observe, and prepare for the redefinition of the fashion industry’s relationship with humanness.

Gigi SipioraMarch 8, 2024