At some point, we all watched Divergent, The Hunger Games, or some other dystopian teen movie and wondered, “Why the obsession with minimalistic clothing?” Cutouts, mesh, layering—it all looks so futuristic and effortlessly functional. Clearly, Katniss Everdeen was too busy trying not to get killed to serve hot pink Y2K. Truth be told, that utilitarian look is shoving its way through the fashion market, and I’m absolutely here for it. 

This is better known as the “subversive basics” trend on TikTok, cut-up tights and layered black, nude, and white mesh tops, with wired headphones and metal hair clips. It replaces whatever funky-patterned, sage green, maximalist Instagram trend we just watched slowly dissolve (hopefully for good). Of course, I consulted with one of the people I trust the most in regards to fashion, Nick Bunzick, ESMOD Paris ‘22. He’s my fashion friend-in-crime and is currently obtaining his master's in Management of International Development in Fashion and Luxury. 

“I think there’s an aspect of sustainability attached within the movement,” Bunzick says. “It’s one of the easier trends to DIY. Not everyone can cut and sew, but everyone can rip a pair of tights.”

Listen, I do hate microtrends. Microtrends almost always rely on fast fashion companies to keep up with the “five-seconds-trending” demand cycle Gen Z got itself into. But the subversive basics trend has us buying a good pair of scissors at CVS and just making it ourselves.

“I see more people moving away from trends and just wearing what they want to wear,” Bunzick observes. “Some brands have given up on producing a show in that traditional format of Spring/Summer, Fall/Winter, and it has had an impact on the trend cycle (along with COVID). I think especially the younger generation will move into a somewhat trend-less way of dressing.” Bunzick connects this with movements including body positivity and embracing individuality. Is the subversive basics trend attempting to break the disgustingly fast trend turnaround we’re all sick of keeping up with? 

In order to dive into the logistics of this alternative trend, I needed to gain the perspective of a tights-cutting, headphones-wearing, layering addict—other than my subversive, indulgent self, that is. No one is better than my 19-year-old sister Elena de Farias, with whom I bonded over buying the same long metal hairdressing clips in attempts of being a dynamic minimalist. 

“All of the ripped tights I made came out looking differently. You can cut it in any way you’d like,” she explains. “Other trends tend to follow a template, if it even is DIY-able. I think that fast fashion stores will eat this up and create cheap versions and steal ideas. Because of this, I think the trend will drop once it becomes less creative.” I’m starting to think calling this distressed and alternative focused-trend “basics” might be miscalculated. 

“Subversive fashion being minimalistic is just catering to the people who lean toward wearing simpler pieces,” de Farias says. “It’s nice for someone who craves comfort but also the ability to express themselves with items that feel more individual. Because so many people like comfort, and this is a current trend a lot of people are wearing, there’s certainly a rise in minimalism.” There’s something comforting about putting on a patternless, austere garment and still feeling unique, like you're breaking some kind of fashion boundary with an angular cutout or a shredded knit sweater. 

Another reason this trend struck me differently than obnoxious TikTok-SHEIN microtrends is its genderless aspect. After living through the Y2K era and watching those who aren’t comfortable with the extremely feminine-presenting trend struggle, the subversive basics trend is a refreshing wave. 

“Gender-neutral is a description that gets tossed around a lot. I think some designers do it well, but they typically tend to be more avant-garde brands,” Bunzick says. “It doesn’t work quite as well when a brand that has a traditional focus on men and women tries it. I think the reason Y2K was so gender-based was it also tied into ‘bimbofication’ as a positive. Sort of a feminist reappropriation.” The upsurge of a trend that relies on something neither masculine nor feminine is a nod at the future we hope we’re hurtling towards. Fashion is always a looking glass into the way our society is advancing. 

You might find these functional and distressed-looking articles of clothing to be familiar. At first glance, I immediately thought: high fashion, expensive, and aggressively contemporary. This DIY trend is giving runway. It reminds me of the obscenely expensive minimalist basics you find at Saks 5th Avenue and wonder why it costs your whole college tuition when you could most definitely rip a thrifted sweater with your bare hands to achieve the same look. I asked my sister about the influence of huge fashion houses on this Gen Z trend, and she replied with “ur mom”—how astute. Thankfully, Bunzick offered some insight. 

“The brand I always think of is Ottolinger. They’ve been making this kind of stuff for a little while now, and I can see its direct influence. Also, it feels like trickle-down Rick Owens,” Bunzick says. “I can’t blame people for doing a trend that has such a small cost of entry compared to investing big dollars in luxury or designer clothing. Maybe that ties into other movements about anti-capitalism and consumerism.” 

If endless TikTok videos about this trend haven’t convinced you yet, here's your green light. Make daring slashes in your tights and wear them as a top, buy a stupid dongle adapter so you can wear silver headphones, and rebel ironically against being basic by wearing the most muted and patternless articles of clothing you own.